The Tea Gardens the War Turned Into Airfields
In August 1942 three Assam tea estates became working airfields overnight, flying the most punishing supply run of the Second World War. The same monsoon sent half a million people on foot through the same tea country, going the other way.
In August 1942, three of the busiest airfields of the Second World War went into service in Upper Assam, at Chabua, Mohanbari, and Sookerating. All three were tea estates months before. A fourth, at Dinjan, had gone up the same spring on another working garden, cleared and graded by thousands of plantation labourers starting that March. This office certifies leaf grown on land that, for a few wartime years, grew runways instead.
The reason was Burma. Japan had cut the overland Burma Road, the last route by which the Allies could supply China, and Assam's tea country, flat enough to grade, close enough to the front, and already threaded with the estate roads and rail sidings the trade had built, was the nearest ground that could take a landing strip. The airfields fed an operation the crews called the Hump: cargo flights over the eastern Himalayas into China, flown in whatever the Army Air Forces had, heavily loaded, over some of the worst mountain weather in the world.
What the estates became
Turning a tea garden into a military airfield was not a clean piece of engineering. The Air Transport Command's own wartime history records that none of the new Assam fields were fit for all-weather flying by the original date, and blames the delay partly on the unskilled state of the local workforce and on promised heavy equipment that never arrived from the United States. That is the colonial administration grading the very labour it had drafted, not a judgment this office repeats. It is also the plainest evidence that the fields were not built by the Army alone. They were built with the same regional labour, thousands of plantation workers among them, that had always cleared and graded this ground for tea.
Once running, the scale dwarfed anything the estates had shipped before. By July 1945 the India-to-China route was landing more than 71,000 tons of cargo a month, and on a single day that August, crews flew 1,118 round-trip sorties. At peak the operation carried more than 34,000 United States Army Air Forces personnel and drew on over 47,000 additional local labourers to keep it running, fuel drums shifted, aircraft serviced, runways kept clear through the same monsoons that had grown the tea. Over the airlift's 42 months, 594 aircraft went down and 1,659 aircrew were killed or went missing, flying a route the crews themselves just called the Hump, with the flat understatement of people who flew it daily.
The half million walking the other way
While the airfields went up, the same tea country was filling with people moving in the opposite direction. As the Japanese advanced through Burma in the first months of 1942, an estimated half a million residents of Indian descent, clerks, labourers, shopkeepers, whole families, set out on foot for India rather than wait for the occupation. Two routes stayed open. The southern one, through the Tamu Pass to Imphal, was hard. The northern one, up the Hukawng Valley to Ledo, a rail town in the middle of Assam's own tea belt, ran through jungle so punishing that survivors and later historians both settled on the same name for it: the Valley of Death.
The monsoon that opened the airfields closed on the evacuation route at almost the same time. May rains turned the Hukawng's rivers into torrents, washed out what passed for a trail, and left thousands stranded with the wrong season ahead of them. How many died has never been settled. Estimates run from the tens of thousands to nearly 100,000 out of the half million or so who made the crossing, a spread wide enough that this office will not pretend to certify a single figure. What the record agrees on is that the dying was concentrated in this one season, in this one stretch of hill country, at the same moment three tea gardens a short march away were being paved for the war effort.
The tea agent who used his elephants
One rescue out of that season is documented in enough detail to certify in full, and it belongs to the tea trade specifically. Gyles Mackrell was 53 in 1942, a former First World War pilot who had settled in Assam and gone to work as an agent for Octavius Steel & Co., a Calcutta tea firm, while running his own elephant transport business on the side. Elephants, not trucks, were how goods and people moved through this country before the war, and a man who owned a working herd of them was a man the tea trade already relied on.
On 4 June 1942, refugees who had managed to cross the flooded Dapha River, near the Chaukan Pass on the Burma-Assam border, reached Mackrell with word that many more were trapped behind them. He took his elephants in. The first attempt failed outright: contemporary film of the rescue shows the animals fighting the current up to their tusks, unable to make headway against water that would not be crossed until it briefly dropped before dawn. Mackrell and his riders kept at it through the following weeks, ferrying exhausted and often sick people across the river in relays and holding a camp on the Dapha to receive them. He fell seriously ill with fever during the operation, withdrew to Assam to recover, and went back to the river once he could stand the trip again. By the time the rescue ended in September, he and his team had brought out roughly 200 people, soldiers and civilians both, some accounts say against a standing order to stop, issued from Assam on intelligence that later proved wrong.
The British press of 1942 made him famous for it, calling him "the Elephant Man" and putting him up for the George Medal, which he received in January 1943. A 2013 biography, Andrew Martin's Flight By Elephant, retold the story in full for a modern readership.
What got remembered, and what did not
Two hundred people is a real number, and every one of them is a person who lived because a tea agent had elephants and used them. It is also a small fraction of the roughly half a million who fled Burma that year, and a smaller one still against a death toll that ran into the tens of thousands at minimum, with some historians' estimates approaching 100,000. Mackrell's rescue was filmed, medalled, and eventually made into a book. The larger dying on the same routes, mostly among Indian labourers and clerks with no press attached to their retreat, took decades longer to draw the same attention, and historians now write about it explicitly as a forgotten chapter next to the one that was not.
Nothing here diminishes what Mackrell did with his elephants on the Dapha. The gardens that grew the tea in your cup once grew a runway to China. The hill country a short march from those runways swallowed a death toll nobody ever finished counting. Both are true of the same ground, in the same few months, and neither cancels the other out.