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How Assam Tea Began

Assam tea was not discovered. It was commissioned. The East India Company already held the valley, lost its China tea trade in 1833, set a committee to ask whether tea could be grown inside the Empire, and sold the first eight chests in London in 1839. Here is how those moves, and the people behind them, made an industry.

A 19th-century colour botanical plate of Camellia sinensis: a leafy branch bearing white five-petalled flowers with yellow stamens, surrounded by smaller studies of the bud, seed and flower parts, labelled Camellia Thea.
Camellia sinensis, the plant Assam grew wild and the Company learned to sell. A 19th-century botanical plate.Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen

Assam tea was not stumbled upon in a forest. It was commissioned, in stages, and minuted at each one. A wild tea plant had stood in the Brahmaputra valley for as long as anyone could say, and the Singpho on the frontier had brewed it for generations. None of that, by itself, made an industry. What made the industry was a run of administrative acts in London and Calcutta, taken because the Company already held the ground and had just lost its supply of tea. The record holds the dates. The Authority certifies them, by weight and measure.

The Company already held the valley, from 1826

You cannot grow tea on land you do not control, and the Company controlled Assam before it ever wanted tea from it. On 24 February 1826 the Treaty of Yandabo ended the First Anglo-Burmese War. Burma ceded Assam, and the old Ahom kingdom that had ruled the valley gave way to British administration. So when the question of growing tea arose, the answer had somewhere to go. The Company was not looking for a colony to plant. It already had one.

The Company loses its tea, 1833

For two centuries the East India Company had never needed a tea of its own. China grew it, the Company carried it under monopoly, and the arrangement held. On 28 August 1833 Parliament struck the monopoly out. The Charter Act renewed the Company's lease to govern India while ending its right to trade, and the guaranteed China supply went with it. A concern that had always bought its tea suddenly had reason to grow some on ground it already held. The question stopped being the price of China tea and became whether tea could be raised inside the Empire at all.

A committee to settle the question, 1834

The question got an address fast. On 1 February 1834 the Governor-General, Lord William Bentinck, appointed a Tea Committee at Calcutta under the secretary George James Gordon. It did the obvious work. It sent a circular to officers across India asking where tea might grow, and Gordon sailed for China to bring back seed, plants, and men who knew the craft. The plan was to import the China bush and plant it somewhere warm.

The plan was overtaken by what was already there. In May 1834 Captain Francis Jenkins, the British agent for Assam, wrote back recommending the valley, where the large-leaf assamica was standing wild in the forests. The committee had gone looking for a transplant and found the genuine article growing on its own land. The China nurseries were the plan. The indigenous bush was the find.

The wild plant had already been walked up to, in 1823

Here is the part the official dates leave out. The committee did not discover the plant in 1834. A Scottish trader named Robert Bruce had been shown it eleven years earlier, and he was shown it by an Assamese. In 1823, near Rangpur in upper Assam, a young local agent named Maniram Dewan led Bruce to Bessa Gam, a chief of the Singpho, whose people drank the wild leaf. Bruce arranged for plants and seed before he died. His brother Charles Alexander Bruce took up the collecting in earnest.

The Singpho knew the plant as food and medicine long before any committee minuted it. Maniram Dewan, the man who first walked the British up to it, went on to plant the first Indian-owned commercial tea garden in the region. The empire whose trade he had helped start later hanged him for backing the revolt of 1857. The founding is a paper trail, and there is no comfort in the margins of it.

Eight chests at Mincing Lane, 1839

The proof went under the hammer six years after the trade was lost. On 10 January 1839 the first Assam tea sold at public auction in London, at the Mincing Lane sale rooms that ran the tea trade. Eight chests, 350 pounds of made tea, the work of Charles Alexander Bruce from the wild assamica rather than the China plant. The eight were forwarded to London out of a far larger consignment Bruce had sent down the river to the Tea Committee in Calcutta.

It was not much tea by weight, and it did not sell at a tea price. The buyers were not buying flavour. They were buying a flag. Every lot went to a patriotic Captain Pidding, at an extraordinary premium many times the cost of producing it and far above what China tea fetched. The premium tells you what the morning actually settled. Tea could be grown inside the Empire, at scale, and need not come from China at all.

What the dates settled, and what they cost

Read in order, the dates are one decision arriving in instalments. A held valley gave the Company somewhere to plant. A lost monopoly gave it the reason. A committee organised the search. Eight sound chests, sold at a patriotic premium, proved the answer. That is the clean half of the record.

The other half is in the same record. The plant the industry was built on was taken from the people who had long known it, with an Assamese, Maniram Dewan, walking the first British officer to it. The labour that worked the new gardens was soon shipped in under contract from far outside the valley. The cup the world drinks each morning was commissioned here. It is worth knowing exactly when, by whom, and at whose cost. The Authority sets it down plainly, and certifies the bill along with the brew.

Filed and Sealed

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